So my kids have been bagel fiends since they first got teeth. We probably could have bought a new car with all the money we've poured into buying bagels over the years.
I'd made them from scratch once, many moons ago, and I didn't do very well. I don't remember much about the experience but the word 'rocks' comes to mind. I haven't tried them since.
Until.
Not sure what spurred the thought, but a couple of weeks ago I decided to make some bagels. I poked around for recipes and found some good ones. But when I said, "Today is the day I make bagels!" it turned out I didn't have all the ingredients I needed. So I cast about my cookbook collection for a recipe that didn't call for whatever I was out of. And I found one.
Yay.
Only not.
I followed all the instructions and they came out, well...here, look:
See how fancy I got? Poppy seeds, sesame seeds, even cinnamon sugar. But. They were skinny and chewy, but not in the good way that bagels are supposed to be. My girls said they were "rustic" and politely ate one, but then these little suckers languished in the pantry until they had to be thrown out.
I did not want to be defeated by mere bagels, so the next grocery trip, I made sure I got everything I needed to do these bad boys right.
Except I didn't. Get all the right stuff, I mean. Bagels need to be made with a high protein flour, like bread flour. No prob! I have tons of flours in the pantry, right? Right! But lookie here:
Do you see bread flour? Neither did I. Ack!
But, I did a little ingredient substitution sleuthing, and found that you can add
vital wheat gluten to regular flour to boost the protein levels. Aha! I had vital wheat gluten! So, I did as instructed and added 1 tablespoon vital wheat gluten per cup of all-purpose flour. And away we went...
I found this recipe at
Smitten Kitchen, who adapted it from
The Bread Baker's Apprentice by Peter Reinhart. (I may need to add that tome to my wish list...)
My Notes:
- This is a bit time and process intensive. There are several stages - the sponge making and dough making stages, the retarding stage, and the cooking stage. But totally worth it! The girls loved these babies, said they were at least as good as what we've gotten at certain places that rhyme with Ranera. (Maybe better.)
- Do not attempt these unless you have at least 3 free hours on one day, room in the fridge to hold two trays of resting bagels overnight, overnight time, and about a half hour the morning you want to bake and enjoy them. (Please don't fling your hands up and pffft! me at this point - it really is worth it.) I'm hoping to get a little faster the more I make these.
- Yes, bagels need to be given a quick skinny dip in boiling water before you bake them. I, too, wondered why. It helps set the crust and gives you that perfect, bagely texture you love. Adding baking soda to the water helps them brown in the oven. Here's more about it, if you're curious.
Ok, kids, let's make some bagels!
Cinnamon Raisin Bagels
Yield: 12(ish) large or 24 mini bagels
For the Sponge:
1 teaspoon instant yeast
4 cups unbleached, high-gluten or bread flour OR 4 cups all-purpose flour + 4 tablespoons vital wheat gluten
2 1/2 cups water, at room temperature
For the Dough:
1/2 teaspoon instant yeast
3 3/4 cups unbleached high-gluten or bread flour OR 3 3/4 cups all-purpose flour + 3 3/4 tablespoons vital wheat gluten
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
5 tablespoons sugar
2 3/4 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons honey or brown sugar
2 cups loosely packed raisins, rinsed
To Finish:
1 tablespoon baking soda
Cornmeal for dusting
To make the sponge: Stir yeast (and vital wheat gluten if using) into flour in a large mixing bowl. Add water, whisking or stirring until it forms a smooth, sticky batter. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Leave for 2 hours at room temperature; the mixture should become foamy and bubbly, swelling to nearly double in size. When the bowl is tapped on the countertop, mixture should collapse.
To make the dough: Add the additional yeast to the sponge mixture. Stir. Add 3 cups flour (and vital wheat gluten, if using), cinnamon, sugar, salt and honey/brown sugar. Stir, or mix on low speed with dough hook. (This dough gets really thick and heavy - I thought my mixer might have a seizure. Just make sure the dough doesn't crawl up the dough hook and try to leave the bowl.) Mix until ingredients form a ball, slowly working in the remaining 3/4 cup flour. In the last couple of minutes, add the raisins.
Transfer dough to counter. Knead for at least 10 minutes (I needed to knead for closer to 15). Dough should be firm, but still smooth and pliable. Make sure there is no raw flour in the mix. [The instructions say that at this point, the dough should pass the windowpane test - you should be able to pull some dough out from the mass and see through it, like a window pane - and should be between 77 and 81 degrees. My dough never did get that warm or windowpaney. I fretted a while over that. Then I quit and enjoyed a yummy bagel.] If the doug seems tacky or sticky, add a little more flour.
Divide the dough into equally sized pieces - 4 1/2 ounces for standard bagels. I don't have a food scale, so I just divided it into even-ish pieces, like so:
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I used my handy bench scraper to lop the dough ball into pieces. I do words, not shapes, so these aren't exactly even. |
Form the pieces into rolls and cover them with a damp towel. Let them rest for about 20 minutes. After all that kneading, you'll need some rest, too.
Line a couple of baking sheets with parchment paper and spray them lightly with nonstick spray. Shape the bagels by sticking your thumbs into the center of each roll and stretching out an opening about 2 1/2 inches in diameter:
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| Again, I'm not great with shapes. I can live with that. |
Mist the bagels lightly with nonstick spray and cover them loosely with plastic wrap. Let them sit for another 20 minutes or so. Pay attention to the 'or so.'
Now's when you get to check and see if the bagels are ready for the next phase, retarding. Fill a small bowl with room temperature water. Then play "Will it Sink or Will it Float?" Drop one bagel into the water. If it floats within 10 seconds, it's good to go. Pat it dry, return it to the pan.
If they don't float - and mine did not - they need to proof some more. Recipe says to let them proof for another 10 minutes or so - "or until a tester floats." I think mine needed another half hour of proofing. At least. Perhaps it was the high-protein flour substitution, or the windowpane fail. Or the room temperature or the phase of the moon. Dunno. It all worked out in the end, so I don't care.
When you have a batch of floaters, re-cover them and put them in the refrigerator overnight. Then take some ibuprofen for your sore arms and try not to think of bagels until morning. (They can actually stay in the fridge like that for 2 days - so all you plan-ahead mavens, you're welcome.)
When you're ready to bake, preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Bring a large pot of water to boil, then add the baking soda.
Gently place bagels into the water, only putting in as many as will comfortably fit. Again, they should float within 10 seconds. If they're hugging the bottom of the pot, nudge them with a spoon until they pop up.
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| We're so close, my lovelies, so close...! |
Boil them for a minute. A literal, actual minute. 60 seconds. Then flip them over and boil for another minute. If you want them very chewy, you can go 2 minutes per side.
While bagels are boiling, sprinkle parchment-lined baking sheets with cornmeal (you can use the same sheets the bagels rested on).
When all the bagels have been boiled, and are nestled on their baking sheets, stick them in the oven. Bake for 5 minutes. Then rotate the pans, switching shelves and turning each pan 180 degrees. After you rotate, lower the oven to 450 degrees and continue to bake for about another 5 minutes, or until the bagels are golden brown.
Remove from oven and let the bagels cool on a wire rack for about 15 minutes before you devour them.
I pre-sliced about half of the batch, then stashed them in the freezer. We've been munching on homemade bagels ever since.
Sure, sure, it's easier to buy them at the store. But when you make them yourself, you know what goes in them, and you can enjoy them with a little pride and satisfaction alongside your favorite schmear. And that tastes mighty good, y'all.
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Oh yeah...!
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PS - The leftover bagel water was a lovely rusty brown color. My oldest had a pair of bright white scrubs she needed to dye dingy for a play she was in. I looked at the hot bagel water. I looked at the scrubs. I looked at the hot bagel water. And, oh yes I did. Worked like a charm and she had the best smelling costume in the show.